We love pretty much everything about travelling in Myanmar but there are two key exceptions: buses and squat toilets. We’ll spare you the details of our squat toilet exploits and, instead, give you the lowdown on something much more useful: how to make the most of Myanmar’s day and night buses and, even better, how to survive the long hours spent on a bus. Here’s our guide and tips for Myanmar bus travels. Happy travels!
Bus travel in Myanmar
Buses are a very popular option in Myanmar. It’s not surprising in a country where domestic flights can be extremely expensive and train journeys are the stuff of legends with derailments and long delays a common occurrence. The days of having to sit on a stool in the aisle of an overcrowded bus are long gone as VIP buses are increasingly available for travellers on the popular tourist routes.
VIP Myanmar buses
VIP buses are a traveller staple in Myanmar and are an amazing option for long distance overland travel through the country. We used JJ Express and our experiences were excellent. VIP bus travel comes with a number of perks:
- large, reclining seats similar to the premium economy cabin on an airplane
- air conditioning
- a blanket to keep warm
- a bottle of water and a small snack
- personal seatback tv and headphones
- frequent toilet stops (sometimes with Western toilet facilities!)
- reasonable price: we paid 20 USD each for a 12 hour overnight bus from Yangon to Inle and 15 USD for a 8 hour day time bus from Inle to Bagan.
- Staff tend to have good english
VIP or not, 12 hours is an incredibly long time to spend on a bus and at times it seems the journey will never end!
The Myanmar Roads
Let’s get this our of the way early: the Myanmar roads vary wildly in standard. While the main roads are relatively OK, any route which ventures off the main road tends to be at least a little bumpy. We encountered this on the latter half of the Yangon to Inle journey and all of the Inle Lake to Mount Popa trip!
This wasn’t a problem for most of the bus, but if you’re a light sleeper (like Dave) it’s safe to assume you’re not going to sleep on the bus. If you do fall into this category of bus traveller be prepared to entertain yourself for the long journey.
What to Bring on Myanmar night buses
1 | Snacks
A small snack, usually a piece of fruit and a croissant, is typically provided on the VIP buses. If you expect to be hungry then bring your own food. Even on an overnight bus some snacks are advisable to keep you going especially if you don’t sleep much.
There’s nothing worse than being trapped on a bus with no source of food. HANGRY anyone?!
2 | Hoody and socks
There’s something about Burmese buses and the maximum power air conditioning setting. It’s a total love affair at times which means you will freeze your bottom off and this is not ideal when trying to sleep. Bring a hoody and some socks to keep you warm. These, combined with the blanket provided, ensure you’ll be cosy throughout the journey.
3 | Books, music and movies
Phones are amazing these days with their reading apps, music storage and capacity for feature length movies. Fill them up pre Myanmar and use them to amuse yourself during the long hours between destination and arrival. It requires no extra packing space. Excellent! Bring a battery pack for some extra charge when the going gets tough! Some VIP buses have in seat tvs with movies and music.
4 | Eye mask and ear plugs
Guaranteed to be your best friend when you need to sleep.
5 | Headphones
Our bus was decked out with back of seat entertainment but we had to bring our own headphones. Movies and music are so much better when you can hear them!
How to handle the rest stops
6 | Get out at every rest stop, even if you don’t need to
The rest stops are usually spaced 2 to 3 hours apart (you can always ask the driver for times) and are the source of great anticipation on an overland trip. The countdown to freedom should never be underestimated! Go to the toilet at every opportunity because, seriously, there is nothing worse than needing a bathroom break between stops.
Secondly, it’s important to stretch those legs!
7 | Be prepared to squat
OK I promised I wouldn’t fill you in on our squat exploits but, like the boy scouts, you need to be prepared. To squat. No one promised Western style toilets at the rest stops! Squat toilets typically have markings for feet at either side of the basin. Use them!
8 | Toilet paper is essential
Bring your own toilet paper as most of the toilets don’t provide any.
9 | Anti bacterial gel
Rest stops at random places, squat toilets and long journeys can mean only one thing: use lashings of anti bacterial gel. It’s a travellers dream and probably saved us from copious dodgy stomachs.
10 | Torch
Did you know your phone can double as a torch? No neither did I but I was glad I’d downloaded the app for our Myanmar jaunt. Middle of the night toilet stops can be a dark affair so use it to find your way and check the cubicle. As I shone my torch on the dark toilet seat at a rest stop and saw a cockroach waiting for me with open arms, I was certainly glad I did. One can only imagine the consequences of accidentally sitting on a cockroach!!
Food and drinks
11 | Don’t be too adventurous with food at the bus stops, but don’t avoid the local food either
Local food is served at rest stops but, remember, there are no toilets on the bus. I repeat, there are no toilets on the bus! We found it best to play it safe and eat where all the locals ate at the stops!
12 | Don’t drink too much liquids, especially beer, in the lead up to your bus journey
See number 11. Yep. And yes, no beer on the bus..it’s just a bad idea, trust us.
Planning for onward travel
13 | Leave plenty of time for onward connecting travel
Delays are inevitable. Especially so, if you are catching another bus or plane. Our 8 hour trip between Inle and Mount Popa was closer to 10 hours. The bus stations are often not located in the most convenient of locations. Take Yangon for instance where it was easily a 60 minute car journey from city centre to the main bus station.
So there you have it, our 13 top tips for surviving Myanmar bus travel. And our best advice of all for when when you’ve made it through a marathon bus journey? Sit back and enjoy your destination. Myanmar is absolutely amazing!
Great blog. I am in Myanmar at the moment and can definitely relate to some of your bus stories ????
Great info, tips as well as photos! I am making a trip there in a few months and enjoy reading about your experience.
Thanks Michael, it’s an incredible place to visit!
what about tickets? Where did you buy them? Do we have to buy them days before? Is there really NO TOILETS in any of the busses? How many seats are there in a row? Which busses are the best? I am not young and want to sit as good
possible as possible
Hi Lone
We used JJ Express as they have the VIP tourist buses. We booked our tickets and seats through their Facebook page (we private messaged them) about three weeks in advance of our travel. There were 3 seats in a row – 2 seats together on the left and 1 seat on the right. The seats were comfortable, well as comfortable as can be for such a long time! There were no toilets on the buses but we stopped regularly for toilet breaks and food so it was fine as long as we didn’t drink too much liquid in between!
Hope that helps
Elaine
Hi Elain
Do you have any information about Day time VIP buses from Inle to Bagan? I have seen a few persons mentioning about it but I cannot find this information myself. So far I found only information about night buses. I prefer to travel on Day time as I always have difficult time sleeping on the bus.
Thank you very much ??
Hi Tony
We took the day bus from Inle to Bagan – it leaves from the JJ Express ticket office in Nyaung Shwe. It was fine, although took a lot longer than the schedule suggested due to traffic!
Elaine
Hi, we are planning to do this trip and wondered if the views were worth taking the day bus for, or would the night bus be better to get some sleep to try and ‘pass’ the time?
Hi Tom
I prefer the night buses as I sleep through. The day bus was fine and it was easy to pass the time watching movies and looking out the window! Dave wasn’t a huge fan of the night buses as he doesn’t sleep much on buses!
Elaine
Thanks for sharing! I’m doing Yangon to Bagan by night bus later this month and this information was great! Especially about the rest stops and toilet paper!
Hope you have a great trip Maddie!
Great info! I’m going to Myanmar in December. Do you have any private car/driver info? Thanks!
Hi Geoffrey
We just booked our drivers at the hotels so don’t have any info.
Elaine
I have travelled between Mandalay and Yangon and between Mandalay and Myitkyina on VIP busses. Mandalay to Yangon is a great option to flying. Less than a quarter of the price and a great way to see the countryside during the day. Travelled on JJ Express and there were three toilet stops, a meal stop and snacks provided. Good English was spoken by the staff. Easy to get food at the meal stop.
Myitkyina to Mandalay was very different. The bus (VIP) provided only water, there was no English spoken and the Bus took 16 hours as it stopped in every town and we down many local roads. The journey was never uncomfortable, even on bad rods. The bus meal stops were at poor quality Burmese cafes and I’ve learnt not to eat too down market as hygiene can be questionable with dishes washed in untreated cold bore water. Next time I will take my own food for the entire journey as it is much safer. Toilet stop was the bushes beside the road in one location.
Don’t assume the bus will stop at bus stations at intermediate stops. The Myitkyina to Mandalay bus terminated in Yangon and does not go into the Mandalay Bus Station. It stopped in at least three different places in Mandalay and I found myself being dropped by the roadside at 1:30am. I caught an open taxi to my hotel without a problem.
With preparation, busses are the best way to get around Myanmar and see the countryside. I prefer busses to flying as the cost of the internal flights for foreigners is excessive.
Thanks for the great article! I am going in December and will be booking buses soon. Really appreciate the company recommendation and the price!
Thanks for the article. I would be travelling to Myanmar this march. If you can help me with two questions. Does JJ Express Buses have wifi? I read somewhere that they did, but I’m not sure. And the other one, how much time should I give Myanmar? I’m also doing more traveling through Southeast Asia. Thanks
Hi Gabriel
Two weeks is quite nice to see all the main sights although 10 days would work if you’re short for time. I don’t recall having wifi on the bus but maybe they’ve been refitted since we made the journey.
Elaine
Nice blog… Can you suggest me regarding the booking of the night bus tickets? How do I book before I travel?
Hi Paramita
Try the JJ Express Facebook page, we used it to reserve.
Elaine
Would you give to me your bus time schedule( every departure time and arriving time) of the september of this year( From yangon to Mandalay, from Inle to bargan, from Bargan to Yangon, )
and Can I get your bus from mandalay to Inle?
I wait your kind replt.
Thanks,
Hi
You will need to reach out to the bus companies directly. We just travelled through Myanmar.
Elaine